IN A TUITUI SHELL*
The capital island of Rarotonga is about 1,870 miles (3,010 kms) northeast of Auckland, New Zealand, 708 mls (1,140 kms) southwest of Tahiti, 1,429 mls (2,300 kms) east of Fiji and 2,939 mls (4,730 kms) south of Hawaii. The Islands are located in the South Pacific Ocean and defined geographically as between 156-167° West and 8-23° South.
The total land area of the country is just 236.7 square kms (91.4 square miles). But the Cook Islands' exclusive economic zone - the territorial waters - stretches for nearly 2 million square kilometres (772,395 square miles). That's slightly bigger than Indonesia or Mexico and nearly three times the size of Texas! And those waters are also the world's largest designated shark and whale sanctuary
The nation is actually 15 separate islands and two - Takutea and Manuae - are uninhabited (special permission is needed to visit). 1,433 kms (891 miles) separate the most northerly island (Penrhyn/Tongareva) from the most southerly (Mangaia)
The islands are 10 hours behind GMT. Daylight saving time is not observed - in other words, the clock doesn't go back or forward at any time. Remember that as you travel to the Islands you will cross the international dateline and either gain or lose a day as part of your journey
English and Cook Islands Maori are the official languages. About 90% of Islanders can read, write and speak both languages. There are 13 letters in the Cook Islands Maori alphabet and two distinctive signs (the glottal stop and the macron) which change the sound and meaning of some words. On the Northern island of Pukapuka, they have their own language. Only about 2,000 people in the world speak Pukapukan
ENTRY LAWS
As long as you're staying no more than 31 days (90 days if you're a New Zealand citizen), your valid passport is the only entry permit you need, along with proof of onward journey, the means to support yourself while on the islands and somewhere to stay. THE VISTOR ENTRY VISA IS GRANTED ON ARRIVAL AND IS FREE. Do not be conned by sites offering visas for payment. You can stay longer, but you'll need to extend your entry permit at the Department of Immigration in Rarotonga or apply by line form before travel. In both cases, you pay a fee for the privilege. For more details, check the government website HERE
Entry by sea is via the designated ports: Rarotonga (Avatiu and Avarua Wharfs), Aitutaki, Atiu, Manihiki (Tukao and Tauhuna Wharfs), Pukapuka and Penrhyn. However, all islands are now open. Entry and exit laws apply and visiting sailors should contact the customs service for details
If you're 18 or over you're allowed to bring in:
If you bring in more than your allowance, you must declare it and pay duty. Failure to do so will result in seizure of all similar items
All islands are now open. There are no Covid vaccination requirements or other special health regulations
TECHNOLOGY
Vodafone is the sole service provider with fibre broadband and satellite offerings. 4G and 3G services are available and vary by island. There are also plenty of wi-fi hotspots on Rarotonga and quite a few on Aitutaki (see Wi-fi below). Some accommodation providers on Mauke and Mangaia also have them
Mobile (cell) phone services are provided by Vodafone Cook Islands. 4G is available on Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Mangaia (in Oneroa only), Mauke, Atiu, Palmerston, Penrhyn, Manihiki and Rakahanga. 3G is available on the other islands.
If you want to use your own phone, your service provider will have to have a roaming arrangement with Vodafone, or you will need a phone which isn't locked to a provider. Vodafone also offer a visitor SIM which provides data and texts, and calls to selected international destinations. The cost varies according to what you want included and for how long you want the SIM to last. Costs beyond the inclusive package are very high compared to the UK, Europe and the US.
There are plenty of wi-fi hotspots on the capital island and quite a few on Aitutaki. Some accommodation providers on Mauke and Mangaia also have them
ON THE ROAD
Driving licences from Australia, Canada, the UK, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, the USA and EU member countries are now accepted in the Islands. Previously you had to queue up at police headquarters to get a Cook Islands licence, and if your country isn't in that list you still have to (but the licence itself is a great souvenir!). You are allowed to drive the same class of vehicles as in your home country provided it's a full licence (provisional licences are not acceptable) and you're 16 or over. Cook Islands visitor licences are valid for 30 days
If you want to ride a scooter or motorbike and you're not licenced to do so at home, you need to take a theory and practical test, the total cost of which is NZ$40. Tests are held Monday to Friday only and you'll need to present your passport to police for identification
Breathalyser testing was introduced in 2008, and if you are involved in an accident, your alcohol consumption could result in a prison sentence. Speed guns are also in use with on the spot fines. The limit on most of Rarotonga is 50kph (31mph), but just 30kph (18 mph) in town (Avarua) and on a stretch of the main road near Muri (between Avana Bridge in Ngatangiia and Parengaru Bridge in Titikaveka
ESSENTIAL SERVICES
Rarotonga and Aitutaki have reticulated water supply systems. On the other islands of the Southern Group limited reticulation is provided and augmented by rainwater catchment and storage. The atolls of the Northern Group rely on rainwater from roof catchments and groundwater. The main water supply on Rarotonga is not potable (not yet certified as safe for drinking) but many resorts have their own filtration systems and there are also water refill stations on Rarotonga and Aitutaki which will have signs saying whether the supply has been treated for drinking. There's a map HERE showing the location of the refill stations on Rarotonga. If you're in any doubt about a supply check first that it's safe. Water is precious in the islands, so please use it thoughtfully
Solar panels have replaced diesel generators and that should mean all of the islands now have a continuous supply of electricity (previously some only had it available for around 12 hours a day). However, on many of the outer islands solar energy storage is failing and this is affecting supplies. Output is 240 volts-50 hertz cycle which is the same as the UK, Australia and New Zealand
PLUGS AND PLUG SOCKETS...look like this. They're the same type as in Australia and New Zealand. Sometimes the plug has only two pins and that means there is no earth (otherwise described as "ungrounded")
HEALTH CARE
The health service in the Cook Islands is of a good standard relative to the needs of the country. The system is managed by the Ministry of Health (Te Marae Ora) and provides a central hospital and A&E service on Rarotonga along with many local clinics. All other islands have hospital or clinic provision. Difficult clinical cases are referred to New Zealand for specialised treatment. There are no dangerous animals, no poisonous insects and no lethal viruses such as malaria indigenous to the Cook Islands
There have been just over 7,000 cases since the first was recorded on 13 February, 2022 and two deaths. In January, 2023 there was a small new spike with most instances on Rarotonga and a few on Aitutaki, Atiu, Mauke and Mangaia, but cases are now rare. Travel and border controls remain changeable.
Health Ministry latest information
This is a mosquito-borne virus indigineous to tropical and sub tropical regions including the Cook Islands, and there is no vaccine against it. It causes flu-like symptoms and sometimes - although very rarely - these can develop into something more serious. The last major outbreak was in 2009 and a lesser one in 2021. For definitive information, please have a look at the World Health Organisation fact sheet
GOVERNMENT
The Islands are a Parliamentary democracy based on the UK model. Officially the Islands are "an independent nation in free association with New Zealand". They gained independence on 4 August, 1965. The free association agreement means:
The nation is not a UN or British Commonwealth member in its own right; New Zealand represents it. But the country became a member of individual United Nations Partner agencies in the 1980s and, through the years, these partner agencies have continued to provide support to the Cook Islands for various programmes
His Majesty King Charles III. He's represented in the Islands by former deputy prime minister, Sir Tom Marsters. His official title is "His Majesty The King's Representative in the Cook Islands". The Cook Islands remains part of the Realm of New Zealand and His Majesty is thereby Head of State of the Cook Islands
The Constitution of the Islands explains the flag:
BLUE - is the colour most expressive of our Nation, it is representative of the vast area of the Pacific Ocean in which the islands of the Cook Islands are scattered. Blue also depicts the peaceful nature of the inhabitants of our islands.
THE UNION JACK indicates our historical association with and membership* of the British Commonwealth.
The 15 WHITE STARS represent the 15 islands of the group
(*not a member in its own right)
"Te Atua Mou E" which translates literally as "God is/of truth". It replaced in 1982 "God Defend New Zealand". Twice Prime Minister, Sir Tom Davis wrote the music and his wife wrote the lyrics. The literal translation of the words is: "God of truth, you are the ruler of our country. Please listen to our voices as we call to you. Protect us and guide us and give us your crown of truth so we can be successful and so that love and peace will rule forever over our beloved country" There's a beautiful rendition of the anthem here
MORE
By law the following are public holidays: Every Sunday, Good Friday and Easter Monday, Christmas Day and Boxing Day, New Year's Day and 2nd January, Anzac Day (25th April each year), King's Birthday (HM King Charles III) - First week of June on all Islands except Palmerston which celebrates the birthday of the late Queen Victoria instead, Ra O Te Ui Ariki (The Day of the Council of High Chiefs) - first week of July, Constitution Day - 4th August but sometimes observed as a public holiday on a nearby day designated by the government
Just a few years ago, I always told people you were more likely to be hit by a falling coconut than be a victim of crime. That's still absolutely true in the outer islands, but sadly no longer quite as true on Rarotonga. Increasingly, tourists have become targets so the message from the police is not to abandon your common sense. Don't leave valuables lying around if, for example, you're going swimming or snorkelling. The top box or space under the seat on a scooter is not a safe place to store things. And lock away cash, jewellery and other valuables in a hotel safe. All that said, crime is still relatively rare
Homosexuality was legalised on 14 April, 2023 when MPS voted to repeal laws that had been in force since 1969. The change was effective from 1 June, 2023. Gay marriage was banned in 2000 and remains illegal. Public displays of affection are still likely be considered offensive. But with the law change, LGBT+ people can now visit the Islands safe in the knowledge that their rights are protected. There's more information HERE
A new law (from 1 August, 2024) means tourists or visitors over the age of 21 are allowed to bring in only one imitation tobacco device and up to 30 millilitres of e-liquid. Law breakers face a fine of up to NZ$100,000 or three months in prison. Cook Islands residents, permanent residents and work permit holders are not allowed to bring in any products. The legal age to buy tobacco products has increased from 18 to 21, and smoking in all public places is prohibited with some limited exceptions where unenclosed spaces are not subject to the prohibition. And you can't buy e-cigarettes or vapes in local shops as their sale is banned.
In a tuitui shell?
* The tuitui is the fruit of the candlenut tree which was introduced to the Islands by the early Polynesians. It's nearly as prolific as the coconut palm. The nut is inside a very hard shell. Before candles, Islanders pierced the nuts with wooden skewers and set light to them. They burn very slowly and last for hours. Well, I thought it was more interesting than saying "in a nutshell"! Photo: Gerald McCormack/Cook Islands Biodiversity Database