Rarotonga is the largest of the Cook Islands and the capital, Avarua is the main commercial and administrative centre. Locals just call it "town". It's also the most commercialised of the 15 islands, but it still retains a Polynesian charm. The main street looks out across the Pacific Ocean and from late June to August you can stand on the sea wall and watch whales as they migrate to warmer waters to breed. You won''t find any fast food chains like McDonalds or any of the ubiquitous supermarket or store chains. Instead there are palm lined roads, lots of local shops and cafes, a must visit Saturday market...and lots of friendly locals.