Palmerston, Cook Islands

Although they're called the Cook Islands, Palmerston is the only one on which Captain Cook ever set foot himself. He discovered it on his second voyage in 1774, but it wasn't until Sunday, April 13, 1777, during his third Pacific voyage, that he went ashore. He named the tiny and remote island after Lord Palmerston who was First Lord of the British Admiralty and father of a future British Prime Minister. The ancient name was supposedly Avarau, meaning 200 harbours.

William was born a Masters and his name became corrupted to Marsters, possibly because of the way he pronounced it - he came from Leicestershire in England and grew up in the Midlands where the accent would have made it sound like there was an "r" in the middle. To this day, islanders still speak with an old fashioned English twang which linguists say resembles a Gloucestershire accent.

Palmerston was annexed to the UK on 23rd May, 1891 and soon after, the British Government granted William a 21 year lease on the island, after a long war of words in the corridors of British power while a Scotsman contested William's claim.

The Marsters family were granted full ownership of Palmerston in 1954 by means of an amendment to the Cook Islands Act passed by the UK Parliament.

Three branches of the family remain and each has a section of the main island for houses and crops, and parts of the other islets. Marriage within a family branch is prohibited. The Islanders are also fiercely loyal to Her Majesty the Queen (Queen Elizabeth II) who they say is a distant relative.

For the Marsters story in detail, click here

OFF THE MAP

The island is so remote, it wasn't even properly located on maps until 1969! Up and till then, its position was based on Captain Cook's original charts which showed it 10 miles away from where navigation satellites have now confirmed it really is. Around the reef are six groups of islets, the largest being Palmerston, North Island, Lee To Us, Leicester, Primrose, Toms and Cooks.

William Marsters built his own home on Palmerston from shipwreck timbers and driftwood found on the shores at the time of his landing. And it's still standing after nearly 150 years...only the corrugated roof is recent and the the original is still underneath. The photo far right shows how big and sturdy the timbers are, and still how perfect. Today, the building is used as a storeroom and cyclone shelter.

Population 63
0.8 sq mls/2.1 sq. kms

Access: Very difficult.
Occasional boats from Rarotonga

All the islanders are descended from one Englishman, William Marsters, a carpenter and barrel maker who arrived from Manuae on 8th July, 1863. He was accompanied by one or possibly two Polynesian wives. He subsequently ended up with four wives, although he only married one. And that was after deserting his first wife and two children in England. Masters had 17 children by his Polynesian wives and 54 grandchildren before he died on 22nd May, 1899, aged 78.

By the time his youngest daughter, Mrs Titana Tangi died in 1973, there were over one thousand Ma(r)sters living in Rarotonga or New Zealand. Just over 60 remain on Palmerston, but wherever they live, they all consider it their homeland.

THE MARSTERS LEGACY

An English Legacy

270 mils/ 434 kms
North West of Rarotonga

Palmerston is an atoll made up from the summit of an old volcano which rises 4,000 metres (13,123 feet) from the ocean floor. At its highest point, it's just 4 metres (13 feet) above sea level. The land near the reef is infertile, but there are typical atoll tree crops of coconut and pandamus. The island is a major nesting site for the green turtle and rare seabirds.

Looking down the main street towards the sea

Remote beauty

Ships visit with supplies only a few times a year, so the recently built HF telephone station (above) right) provides the only permanent link with the outside world. There are two telephones. And even the internet has reached this remote atoll...access is available four hours a day. Visiting yachts help supplement the island's supply needs.

Left to right: A young islander next to William's grave on Palmerston. More young islanders. A proud Simon Marsters in front of William's original house. Islanders are experts at fishing
More about the modern day Marsters of Palmerston

THE NEXT GENERATIONS...

Religion plays an important role in everyday life on Palmerston. William Marsters was converted to Christianity by the 19th century English missionary, the Rev. John Williams, who persuaded him to build the first church. This is a more recent construction. Services are held daily and several times on Sundays. Islanders dress up in their finest clothes.

Palmerston is also home to thousands of sea birds

MUCH MORE ABOUT PALMERSTON

King of all he surveys: How Marsters got his island and the Scot who tried to stop him
The linguistic legacy
An insight into daily life
Royal connections
William's story in song: Video
A family reunited with its roots

Palmerston as seen from the space shuttle
The settlement is top right

Office buildings Palmerston style

POINTERS TO PARADISE:
MORE OF PALMERSTON RAROTONGA SITE MAP HOME SURPRISE ME!
OR FIND YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE USING THE MENU ON THE TOP OF THE PAGE

Bookmark or share this page What is this?